第三章服装彩、面辅料、款式与工艺服装产品设计三要素造型工艺、彩、面料。描述服装款式时注意突出卖点如流行彩或是昂贵面料。设计的巧思往往体现在结构工艺而某些特殊工艺需要与之匹配的面料才能呈现完美的效果。3.1. 彩与图案 3.1.1彩Bleach Ivory White Cream Off white Beige Oatmeal Yellow 漂白象 牙白本白米米、黄白米黄麦明黄Tan Taupe Brown Charcoal Stone Col Kahki Grey Tonal 深褐灰褐棕褐木炭卡其深灰同调的Baby pink Soft Rose Pink Dusty Pink violet Purple Plum Grape Dusty Rose 浅粉粉红土粉紫
罗兰深紫酱紫葡萄紫豆灰Light/Mint Grass Emerald Green Olive Mauve 浅绿纯露怎么提取
草绿翠绿深绿墨绿紫红Mid blue Blue Royal blue Navy Pale blue 浅蓝湖蓝恶劣捕捉
中蓝普蓝宝蓝藏青灰蓝Orange-red Rose Scarlet Red Wine Coral Spice Red Fuchsia 橘红玫红猩红深红大红酒红梅红备注muted柔和light pale淡dark deep深neutral中间调过渡staple color主调- 2 - 3.1.2 图案Printed 印花Paisley 旋涡纹Pinstriped细条Striped粗条Check方格Micro-check Plaid花格子Cabana Marco Plaid Window Pane 窗格Swallow Gird 千鸟格Herringbone 人字纹Tartan 苏格兰格子呢Organza 透明硬纱Cable Knit 麻花针Jacquard 提花Lace 蕾丝Sequin 金属亮片Piqué Marcella 3.2. 面料与辅料【材料】纤维含量Fiber content 天然Natural棉、毛、丝、麻混纺blending 棉埃及棉麻亚麻、
苎麻、黄麻、丝桑蚕丝、柞蚕丝毛羊绒、羊毛、羔羊毛、美利奴羊毛、安哥拉山羊毛马海毛、羊驼毛、骆驼毛、牦牛毛、再生Regenerated粘纤天丝莱赛尔合成Synthetic 涤纶、腈纶、锦纶、氨纶、丙纶皮革Leather牛皮、胎牛皮、小山羊皮、麂皮鹿、鹿皮、山猫皮猞猁、黑貂皮、鸵鸟皮、海狸皮、海豹皮、鲨鱼皮、鳄鱼皮、蜥蜴皮、蛇皮、蟒蛇皮、羽绒Down白鹅绒、鸭绒皮毛Fur狐狸、栗鼠毛领、貂绒、兔毛、- 3 - 【面料】布卷Roll 双面针织物double knits 机织物woven 经编warp knits 纬编weft knits 丹宁布denim、天鹅绒velvet、斜纹布twill tweed丝、毛、巴厘纱Voile、泡泡纱Seersucker、蕾丝布lace、雪纺布chiffon、乔其纱georgette、法兰绒flannel、灯芯绒corduroy、丁缎satin、府绸poplin、绉绸crepe、织锦缎silk brocade 、pique Marcella 珠地网眼布供应商-高支羊毛、羊绒面料LoroPiana供应商Guabello -sup130s Luxair花型Sheers Deluxe Marzoni、Zegna E. Thomas 轻缩绒面150s Reda 意sup100-150s Charles Clayton 180s Scabal’s 英世家宝sup250s Dormeuil Holland amp Sharry Harrisons of Edinburgh Vitale Barberis Canonico 意100-150s 供应商-棉、麻、丝Cotonificio Albini 意Thomas Mason 英Canclini意90s 埃及棉Alumo 精梳超细埃及棉Giza45 MontiTessitura monti spa Ferno亚麻Seersucker 绉条纹泡泡纱Chambray Tweed Denim 【西服定制用料】幅宽90cm 男套西3个衣长10cm 例-衣长76cm则需76x310238厘米女套西3个衣长63cm则需63x3189cm 男女西裤2个裤长10cm 腰围74cm内可套裁用3个裤长10边料W74H107裤脚23用3个
裤长20 幅宽140cm 男定制1个衣长1个袖长10边料男裤1个裤长大衣2个衣长10边料【辅料】纽扣纽扣的规格、材质1L0.6235mm1/25inch 例32L0.62520mm
24L0.62515mm 扣眼button hole四眼扣4 holes button滚眼bound button hole用面料做的扣眼套结bar tack钩扣clasp button镀镍铜brass button nickeled包皮leather nub牛角
静压实验>调速皮带轮
钮扣horn button模压角质纽扣molded horn贝壳扣Shell Button果壳钮扣nut button黄铜Brass合金alloy 四合扣、按扣snap button暗扣concealed 盘扣frog closure - 4 - 拉链由 拉链牙的材质、大小决定类别、型号3号最小。The type and name of zipper is given on the basis of the material used in zipper teeth. Teeth size is expressed by 3- 10 and onwards. 闭口拉链:closed –end zipper 开口拉链:open –end zipper双拉头拉链: zipper with double sliders 树脂resin teeth zipper尼龙: nylon teeth zipper隐形: invisible zipper 黄铜: brass teeth zipper镍齿: nickel teeth zipper青铜: bronze teeth zipper古铜: antique brass teeth zipper铝齿: aluminum teeth zipper树脂银齿:resin silver teeth zipper. 拉链头z ipper puller ♂ PZ:Plastic zipper 塑料拉链♂ CZ:Polyester zipper coil zipper previously known as Nylon zipper 聚酯拉链尼龙拉链♂ MZ:Metal zipper 金属拉链G.K. : Antique Brass Zipper 古铜♂ AL : Aluminium Zipper 铝NI : Nickel Zipper 镍牙G.B. : Golden Brass Zipper 金铜 2. FUNCTION ：功能O O/E : OPEN-END 开尾拉链 C C/E : CLOSED-END 闭尾拉链M 2WAY : 2WAY OPEN END 双向拉链Example : ♂ PZC5 : Plastic zipper no. 5 closed-end ♂ PZM8 : Plastic zipper no. 8 2way open-end ♂ GKO5 : Metal Antique Brass no. 5 open-end POSITION OF SLIDER ：拉链头的位置L/S : Left slider same as R/H-Right hand. Means-When a jacket is opened the slider remain
s at the left side of the user. 左拉头留在穿着者衣服的左侧R/S : Right slider same as L/H-Left hand 右拉头同理Use : L/S -- in Europe and Asia both by male and female 3.3. 男装常识男正装从品类角度主要包括西服套装、衬衫、领带领结、袖扣【White Tie Dress Code】一般晚上六点以后 1. Black or midnight blue dress coat evening tailcoat with silk –grosgrain罗缎/satin缎-facings. Horizontally cut-away at the front. 2. Trousers of matching fabric with one single wide stripe or two stripes of satin or braid in the US 2 stripes in Europe and are worn with bracessuspenders in the US 裤侧
边嵌条 3. White plain stiff-fronted cotton shirt cotton marcella 4. White stiff硬挺wing collar preferably detachable可拆卸假领子5. White bow tie蝴蝶结6. White low cut waist coat 7. Black silk socks or stockings 8. Black court shoes轻便舞鞋浅口、系带皮鞋- 5 - 【Black Tie Dress Code】A jacket with silk facings on a shawl collar or peaked lapel Trousers with a single silk or satin braid covering the outer seams no cuff or belt loops A black cummerbund or a low-cut waistcoat A white dress shirt Marcella or pleated front French cuffs amp cufflinks and a turndown or detachable wing collar A black silk bow tie matching the lapel facings Shirt studs optional depending on the type of shirt and cufflinks Black dress socks usually silk or fine wool Black shoes traditionally leather court shoes pumps often highly polished or patent leather. 【Dress Shirt-British】More formal evening garment worn with black or white tie some have stiff fronts detachable collars attached with collar studs. Long tail 7-8 buttons left over right buttonholes aligned vertically are placed on the placket. To give extra fullness to the back there are often hand made pleats where the back panel joins to the yoke. 【Dress Shirt-America】Garment with a collar. Full-length opening at the front collar to hem sleeves with cuffs. Front fastened using buttons or studs 纽扣或饰钉固定【Pocket】America: left chest pkt for cigarettes and pens sewn-on patch贴袋with a plain upper hem optionally with a single button for closure. Less formal:longer pktsdual pkts or pkts with flap closure. Safari amp Military style猎装军装: 2 large pkts with buttoned flap even pkts on the sleeve. 【NecktieampBow Tie】derived from cravat领巾、三角巾Red – accentuates 强调overall outfit combines well with almost any suit and shirt especially great match for a darker suit and white blue or gray dress shirts. One of the most popular colors.红
领带与各西装配伍度高流行。Burgundy 勃艮第葡萄酒dark red – business classics商务经典. Good for almost any occasion. Solid burgundy tie with no pattern is usually worn by politicians. Blue – also among the standard and most popular colors for neck ties. Lightens a darker suit and especially worn for receptions会面networking events and similar circumstances. Navy dark blue 藏蓝– business classics. Perfectly combines with all other colors. Perfect for various business occasions. - 6 - Orange pink and lilac 淡紫– usually worn with white light blue or other light-colored
dress shirts. Mainly for spring and summer or for a commemorative event纪念仪式. Yellow and green – good in spring and summer and/or with darker suit-shirt combination. Green ties are a perfect match for a classic white shirt. Brown – considered to be quite casual. Very hard to match with any other color. The best use for a tie of such color – a weekend or an informal gathering. Black – Sometimes worn in the evening with a Tuxedo Dinner Jacket in British English as an untraditional alternative to the classic black Bow
tie or at all times by waiters in restaurants. Considered acceptable with conservative black business suits but also made fashionably popular by the 1980 movie The Blues Brothers. Black ties are especially relevant at funerals and in Japan a solid black tie is worn only at funeral services. White – worn in court by judges lawyers and defenders in the judicial system of the United Kingdom. In Japan white is strictly for attendance at weddings or school graduations. Grey and silver – look neat with a classic white dress shirt. For birthday parties cocktails various celebrations and other event of the same nature. Grey ties can be worn at work too. Multicolored – distinctive feature of those who want and dare to stand out from the crowd usually attributed to young professionals. Such ties accentuate individuality mood and taste. Striped – worn with any suit the quintessential 典型的choice for a person who does not need a tie often. versatile.多变的Paisley – a fish-like pattern originated in t
he middle east connotes 暗示variety amp difference Polka dot – a small dots of one color on a solid background. 波尔卡圆点【Collar】attached of detachableformal Spread collars: measure from around 3.5 to 6 inches between the collar poins. Wider collars also know as cutaway/ Windsor collar Point straight small collars: narrow with2.5 to 3.25inches between the points of the collar. Button-down collar: points fastened down by buttons Club collar: rounded edge.
Wing collar: stand collar and point stretch horizontally. 【Accessary】Cummerbund 腰封源于英印度军装worn with ite pleats facing up. Shirt stud - a decorative fastener that fits onto a buttonhole on the front of a pleated shirt or onto the starched bib of a stiff-front shirt. Such shirts have special buttonholes solely for shirt studs. A cufflink also cuff link or cuff-link is a decorative fastener worn by men or women to fasten the two sides of the cuff on a dress shirt or blouse. French cuff 双袖口用袖扣连接在袖子上。- 7 - 场合与服装政要正式会见场合西服多为两粒扣三粒稍不正式平驳头深。领带以红、蓝为主。外国酒会以White Tie、Black Tie为着装要求。- 8 - 明星红毯深较多青果领或戗驳头正式礼服或设计感礼服。领结比领带正式。- 9 - - 10 - - 11 - 部分款式图例Double Zipper Blouson双拉链夹克Caban Jacket POLO Bermuda Shorts 3pcs Suit Field Jacket Cardigan Military Pocket Vintage Stripe dress shirt Wing collar Papillion 领结Cummerbund Down Jacket Crocodile Biker Jacket - 12 - Hooded Parka 连帽皮衣Shearling hooded
Car Coat 剪毛带帽大衣Blazer Grosgrain lapel 罗缎领面Frog Closures 盘扣Sport Coat Melange Pullover 混纺套头衫Monkstrap 宽带扣
Patent漆?礼服裤子侧缝有滚边French Cuff 双袖扣其他Safari jacket 旅行夹克blazer运动夹克上衣hooded overcoat连帽大衣bulky sweater knits宽松针织毛衫pullover套头衫divided skirt裤裙tuxedo无尾夜礼tails燕尾服cropped短外套【燕尾服】黑或藏青精仿礼服呢或驼丝锦肩宽、肩头方宽戗驳头蒙一层无光泽平纹绸或塔夫绸驳头有插花用扣眼左胸前有手巾袋。前门襟用布包扣左右各三粒袖扣3-4粒扣。【男人衣橱Men’s Wardrobe -Must Have 5 pieces 】 1. 海军蓝细条纹双排扣西装 2. 斜纹花呢夹克上衣棕/蓝/灰 3. 中灰卷边法兰绒裤子系扣裤门/搭肩带扣/侧袢无裤袢4. 经典白纯棉衬衫八字领双层袖口珍珠母纽扣无胸口袋、袢扣领 5. 单排扣长款海军蓝斜纹大衣天鹅绒领- 13 - 3.4. 设计Design Guideline Proportion比例balance平衡repetition重复emphasisi强调harmony和谐structure结构Line线条shape silhouette figure profile outline contour廓形color彩detail细节select挑选combination组合category种类catalog directory目录collection line系列节奏rhythm 一致的uniform不平衡unequal 对称symmetrical 不对称asymmetrical. 交替alternate progression graduation渐变increase/decrease增加/减少integral 完整的radiation放射的place设置focal point焦点correct正确的incorrect错误的sample样衣平凡普通plain dramatic 引人注意eye-catching appealing印象深刻imposing impressive 单调的monotonous精美精致daintiness exquisite 大方elegant amp graceful 低调low profile 奢华luxurious 讨
人喜欢的flattering视错illusion 概念conception手工缝制hand-made 对应的counterpart 尾期检查final inspection中期检查in-process inspection 中高端middle and high-end 中档regular 古典的vintage 成衣ready to wear/ prêt-a-porterprey tap or tay 高级定制Bespoke完全定制Made-to-Measure不完全定制Haute coutureoat-koo-toor 普通西服lounge suit英式Regular Fit/Large Fit 风格style经典Classic、商务Business 、休闲Leisure/Casual 成衣、服装行业内细分garment 服装类别Apparel 整套衣服Outfit 西装——套西西服上衣西裤背心SUITS
光盘封套BLAZER/JACKET PANTS VEST 1. 领子Collar: 平领Flat Collar 立领Stand Collar 翻领Turndown/ rever 假领子mock up毛领fur collar 领豁口、驳嘴tie space 领结bow-tie开关领convertible collar 领尖钉有钮扣的领子扣结领Button-down collar 领袢collar tab领子或领嘴处装的小袢领扣collar button 罗纹领ribbing collar 领尖Collar point length/width 领面upper collar 下领collar stand/fall 领插片collar stay 胶领圈plastic collar support吊袢hanger loop挂衣服窄领口low neck 领线neckline 领片和驳头撞contrast color 出现问题里外容上下领松紧Loose/tight皱wrinkle at 领卡脖tight neckline领离脖collar stand away from neck 后领贴neck tape用织带掩盖住领子与衣服的接缝处2. 驳头Lapel 平notch 戗peaked 青果shawl / L-shaped Modified lapel design→ higher notch line slanted 串口gorge line指领面与驳头面的缝合线也叫串口线。串口不直gorge line is uneven 驳口lapel roll/fold line for lapel 驳头翻折的部位驳口线也叫翻折线。3. 肩部Shouldernatural/ padded肩线shoulder seam 前过肩front yoke 4.
衣身BodiceWaistline: loose/fitted腰带waistband 底边hemrounded cut背缝center back - 14 - seam背叉vent前身通省front open dart前襟Forepart front front panel双层、两面面料double layer前门襟front placket偏门襟side closing暗门襟French front/ cover placket/ wrap over front挂面facing 门襟Single/ Double breast closing拉链耐用性durability of zipper For styles with front placket
verify that upper placket fully covers under placket. Open amp check construction and stitching有前门筒的款式面层要盖住底层.打开并检查结构和针步5. 袖子Sleeve长短袖LS/SS 大/小袖top/under sleeve 袖山Sleeve cap圆袖set-in sleeve连肩袖raglan sleeve袖开衩sleeve slit袖衩条sleeve placket 袖克夫cuff橡皮筋袖口elastic cuff罗纹袖口rib-knit cuff双袖头double cuff French cuff 腋下镶布Underarm gusset袖肘贴皮elbow patch 袖隆皱creases at underarm、袖隆缝起皱puckers at underarm seam、袖偏前leans to front 6. 口袋Pocket胸带、手巾袋breast pkt 票袋单侧双袋上面的ticket pkt 口袋巾pkt towel贴袋patch pkt 插袋insert pkt 斜插袋slant pkt直插袋straight pkt 双嵌线袋double welt pkt开线插袋slash pkt拉链袋zipper pkt 吊袋bellows pkt 袋盖pkt flap 口袋折边pkt hem 袋唇pkt welt 7. 西裤Pants : 零钱袋coin pkt表带watch pkt 后袋hip-pkt棉裤cotton wadded trousers 斜纹腰头织带twill waist tape 裤中缝crease line 侧缝side seam袢Tab 腰上线袢French tab门襟front fly 裤裆crotch 裤耳beltloop 翻脚口turn-up bottom 小折边baby hem平脚裤cuffless trousers 8. 里、衬里料、衬布lining 里布太多/紧too full/tight袖里拧diagonal wrinkles at sleeve lining半里Half lining活动里、可拆卸detachable lining
粘合衬fusible interlining胸衬stay tape袋衬bearer蝴蝶半里衬butterfly lining-轻便portable and convenient 不加里衬unlined 9. 面料精纺worsted wool羊毛支数150s-210s yarn长丝filament精细fine石棉—陶瓷复合纤维asbestos-ceramic fiber composite黏胶人造丝viscose rayon手感细腻soft touch质地较密fine-grained texture强捻tight twist经用耐磨abrasion弹性恢复力resilience光泽Burnish弹力stretch 牢colour fasteness 防雨性rain proofness 透气性air permeability Suede麂皮/磨毛anti-powder防尘Treatment Number of pantone卡号Covered with percale jacquard the design has good hister with softness. 面料采用高支高密精梳全.四合扣
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