GLOSSARY OF DENIM LAUNDRY
Acid wash/Snow Wash It's the process done by washing the garment with pumice stones previously soaked into a solution of PP Acrylic resins Bleach The process of oxidizing the dye to reduce its intensity. It can be done locally or in the washing machine. Pigments can't be bleached.Chloride/Hypo Clips Plastic clips. The ones used to tide up electric wires. In this case they are used to tie the garments for creating shapes or creases Coating Crinkle/3D Acrylic resins are used in laundries for different purposes. It is normally added to the resin solution for reducing the loss in fabric resistance.
It also used as binder for pigments or dyes.
Biopolishing /
Antipilling enzyme It's the process of removing cellulose from the surface of the fabric. It's done by using an enzyme called acid cellulase which attacks the fibre gradually and superficially. The result is a smoother hand feel and a brilliant surface. The acid cellulase works in acid environment so
its action can be stopped just by increasing the ph
It's the Sodium Hypochlorite (NaOCl). It's a common bleaching agent used at home for washing white fabrics.
It is used by spray or in the washing machine to bleach the indigo with a blue cast.
As it can damage the cotton and the elastan, using Hypo on fabrics requires good skills.
The process of applying polyurethane coatings on garments by spray or brush. The process of garment coating depends on creativity and
customer requirements. There are unlimited solutions. The most popular is the leather effect
It's the shape given on the hip or back knee in order to imitate the natural folding of a worn garment. Can be permanent if done with the
resin or not permanent if done by using only water. Shapes are created using different systems but the most classic way is by hand using hoses and dummies
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Destroy Holes and extensive damages. It's done by using small rotating abrasive stones
Direct Dye Common dye used for cotton fabrics. Wide range of shades and short process. Fastness and brilliancy are lower than reactive. It's cheap.Dirty Dispersing agent Reduce the risk of back-staining during stone wash (ex. Indigo pollution on pocketing)
Fixing/Curing It's the process for fixing the chemicals applied on the garments. Different products need different temperatures and time Grinding The used effects on pockets and high points done by abrasive stones
披肩按摩器
The dirty process includes tinting and pigment applications. Creativity is at the base of this process which aim to make the garments look
dirty and heavily used. The wash designer normally takes inspiration from heavy jobs in order to create natural and new dirty effects
Enzyme wash/Enzymatic stone wash It's the stone wash done by using a special chemical called neutral cellulase. The neutral cellulase is an enzyme (a kind of protein) which attack specific molecular groups, in this case with the same “salt & pepper” result of the stone wash. Cellulase enzyme is so effective that it can replace and do even better than the classic stone wash. It doesn't create solid waste, it's controllable and completely eco friendly. Jeans, stone washed with enzymes, l
ook more natural and more “blue”
Hand brushing (Hand sanding/Scrapping)
It's the process for creating vintage effects with the use of sand paper. The sand paper is passed on the garments, removing the indigo and
creating whiskers and local abrasions
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Hydrogen Peroxide
Neutralization Old dye/Vintage dye Pigment Pipes PP
Random Bleach It's the process done by washing the garments with towels previously soaked into a solution of chloride.Reactive Dye It's a weak oxidizer. It is normally used to give a clean/blue shade to the indigo. It can be used for the bleach of black fabrics. It can be used for pre treatment of white fabrics before the dyeing process. It removes sizes which could interfere with the washing or dyeing process.Laccase The laccase is the enzyme used for bio-bleaching. It bleaches the garments creatin
g a very strong grey cast. It's costly.It's the process for ending the action of the oxidizers. After an oxidation (PP, Hypo, etc..) there must be a neutralization done by products
like Sodium Metabisulphite. A bad neutralization leads to damages, yellowing and other troubles. A good neutralization is done in the washing machine for at least 5/10 minutes with a quantity of product calculated according to the weight of the garments
It's a dyeing process done using special dyes. These dyes don't penetrate completely so they give a used look and contrasts on the double
seams and high points
It's a dye. It is used mainly in screen printing but it's widely used also in laundry/garment dye. Pigments can be used for dyeing garments
obtaining vintage/oily used garment dyes, for creating spots or for coloring coatings, etc.
The pipes used for creating 3D shapes. The best ones are the air system aluminum pipes because they are easily malleable and they
stand high temperature
It's the potassium permanganate (KMnO 4 ). It's an oxidizer and it's applied by spray to bleach the garment locally (on scrapped areas) or in the washing machine. Bleaching with PP gives normally a gray cast to the garment. It can be used for bleach safely spandex/lycra fabrics. It is also used for the bleach of 100% sulfur black dyes.It's the most common dye used for cotton fabrics. It has unlimited shade options and its very shiny. Fastness is also high. Reactive dye
simota
process is long and costly.
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Resin Rinse wash Silicon It's a chemical which gives smooth hand feel and deepness to the colors.
Softener It's a chemical used to give a smooth hand feel
钨铜电触头Spin/Hydro extraction After washing, before drying, the garments are spin in a centrifuge
Spray It's everything which is done by airbrush. In denim laundry all kind of chemicals can be diluted and applied by spray Stone Wash It's the glyoxalic resin. The product used for permanent 3D effect or indigo reserving. Can be applied by spray or by dipping the whole garment into a solution with other auxiliaries. After application the resin is fixed in a oven. Quantity, temperature and fixing time c
hange
according to the composition and weight of the fabric. Applying glyoxalic resin it's a sensitive process because the reaction between the chemical and the fiber cause always a loss of resistance. To reduce this loss acrylic resins and silicons can be added to the solution
It's the most simple and cheapest wash. It's normally done by washing the garments for 1-5 minute in the washing machine loaded with
only water. Dispersing agent can be used for reducing back staining and keep the pockets clean. If resin is applied on the raw garments we'll call it Resin Rinse
Stone wash is done by washing the garments with pumice stones of different sizes. The stones, rubbing the surface of the fabric, remove
the indigo. In addition to the stones an enzyme can be used to reduce time and increasing the effect. Stone washed garments have that unique soft and used look which is the base of all vintage washes
Tags
Tie wash/Tie effect Tinting
锅炉烟囱制造
Whiskers
2012 Michele Carlesi Tags are used to create local contrast. They can be applied before stone wash or used in 3D process to hold the shapes created by hand. Bleaching with tags is normally avoided because creates too much contrast and a cheap look
It's the process done by washing a folded garment. This will produce creases, lines or crinkles more or less evident according to the time of the process and the weight of the fabric
It's the process used to create a slight dirty effect on the garments. It's normally done by dyeing the goods using a small amount of direct dye (brown, yellow and red) for a very short time
The lines that would appear naturally on a pair of raw jeans if they were worn for a long time. Manual whiskering imitate and accelerate this process creating vintage or fancy patterns.
铁塔基础It's the most difficoult and artistic step of denim washing. Page 5
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